El Batey, Puerto Rico

story by Mauricio

Bill and Chelsea Clinton had a few. Heck, even Benicio del Toro had a few; beers that is. And all this happened some forty two years after “El Batey” bar opened it’s doors back in 1967, and have remained open ever since. By the way, under the same owner (Davey Jones).

“El Batey” was the name given to the special area which the native Caribbean Taíno Indians built their settlements around. It’s the oldest “dive” in the Caribbean. You’ll find it walking through the cobblestone paved streets of Old San Juan, on ‘Calle del Cristo” , right across the street from the legendary “El Convento” hotel. This place is stripped from any fancy decorations, no whimsical lighting or sophisticated ambiance. This one is the “poster boy” for all dives in the world. Walk through it’s doors and you’ll feel like entering a slower pace of life. You’ll find a bar, some chairs, a pool table and a recently revamped jukebox, (the only visible upgrade inside the bar in more than 25 years), which now plays CD’s instead of old 45′s. Yes, they managed to keep the same music selections they once had when they opened in the 60′s!

Tonight, I get to meet Felipe the bar manager, and has been for quite a few years. At first glance I see a washed out hippie with a pony tail who graciously invites me to a cold beer. « See that corner over there? » He points out a section of the wall which is pretty much covered with autographs and graffiti that go all the way back to the early beginning. That’s where the oldest autograph is; it probably dates back to 1968, he explains.

In the beginning, El Batey was intended to be a hangout for local artists and poets. At first Davey Jones was adamant about not letting the bar patrons write on the walls of the establishment. Soon enough he realized it took too much policing to keep the “vandals” at bay, so nowadays El Batey looks like an extension of the now closed CBGB’s in New York.

This bar is quite bohemian. Here you’ll find American ex-pats, up and coming artists, and wannabe hippies. Everybody minds their own business and the bartenders are quite friendly and colorful. They’ll chat with you like they’ve known you forever, but don’t ask for food, since there isn’t any !

El Batey bar is open from 2pm to 6am seven days a week.

101 Calle Del Cristo Old San Juan, 00901
(787) 725-1787

Leave a Reply